Independent Fragrance Rater/Reviews

ATELIER MATERI

FRAGRANCES

A French House

Iris Ebène

The opening is based on some citrus - mandarins and the sweetness of red mandarins, and a dash of bergamot; this all is counterbalanced by a bright spicy impression.  The latter starts to show characteristics of pink pepper after a while.

 

The drydown introduces an orris impression, which gave this creation part of its name ("iris" root).  It is quite intense and in the ground for a while.  It is slightly powdery only, and undertones of violet are also evident now and then.   Touches of a soft suede are present, but transiently only. 

 

The base ads a Peru balsam not, which is not strong on me but more of an accompaniment, and it is not particularly medicinal in nature.  The suede has morphed into a smooth weak leather, and hints of a weak woodsy impression; again it is quite faint.

 

I get moderate sillage, very good projection, and five hours of longevity on my skin. 

 

A nice fruity-floral-spicy spring composition, with the orris in the foreground.  Overall, the spices are integrated well and I would not call the spicy components very prominent or intrusive.   The first half is the most impressive, but after that it loses intensity and vividness. The quality of most of the ingredients is high, and the performance is adequate.  3.5/5

 

 

Narcisse Taiji

      Fruit, spice and floral, a peculiar combination at the start, which could be a dog's breakfast or an original set of top notes delivering an original first phase - the latter was the case.   Pear, ginger, as a tuberose appear together - the tuberose is is a bit delayed - and their joint force result in an original moment of the synthesis of the three.

The drydown is based on dried grass in its core.  Hay absolute and bran absolute are mentioned in the scent pyramid,  but the hay is in the foreground on me.  Then I get the eponymous narcissus, finally, and, quite unexpectedly, it remains in the background for a while, before becoming stronger after a while.  

The base develop a smooth suede-kike leather, followed by an usually mild and soft patchouli.  Towards the end it becomes much sweeter as a result of a large dose of white musks flooding the whole in the final stages.   

I goer strong sillage, excellent projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.  

A very good first phase in this spring scent is followed but a good drydown, but the base does not keep up this standard, as it lacks vividness and is a bit too generic.  The performance is good. 3/5