EAU DE JOY

BY JEAN PATOU


A vintage sample:

Citrus, mainly some bergamot, afford a brief bright second, before a tuberose kicks in.  It is a rich tuberose, which does not only include the blossom, but also includes the stems; it is quite indolic with a sharp, nigh-musky undertone.  Lots of aldehydes are poured over the tuberose, maintaining a fresh feeling in the opening phase.  Hits of a restrained peachy fruitiness appear only transiently.

Then a jasmine breaks through, claiming the centre stage in this olfactory drama from the tuberose from now on.  It is a green jasmine, not particularly powdery, with the leaves also featuring quite prominently on me.   Soon a rose is making an appearance; again a green rose mainly expression the leaves and stems.  This rose never challenges the dominance of the jasmine.  A muguet makes itself smelt now, and blends in with the rose, as does an ylang-ylang impression; all these three constitute an accompanying trio to the lead jasmine.  The ylang-ylang is trim and lacks any creaminess on me.  Later on a white orchid joins in, and whiffs of oleander briefly appear in the latter's tail end.  

This flora bouquet contributes well into the base, where the crisp floral greenness is supplements with a fairly restrained nose of civet, which expresses a musky undertone.  Touches of sandalwood are evident at times now, but most of the woodsy input still is derived from the leaves and stems of the flowers.

I get strong moderate sillage, excellent projection, and eight hours of longevity on my skin.

This now discontinued product, first released in 1953,is  splendid creation for spring evenings, rich and full of vivid floral delights, although the citrus constituents might have suffered some age-related fatigue in its intensity.  One of its minor points is that the base notes are less convincing compared to the previous stages.    Rich, well-textured, composed of ingredients of the highest quality.  It exudes mature confidence without being musty.  One of Patou's masterpieces.  4.25/5