Aldehydes, mandarin, with lots of green notes spruced up by generous lashings of cumin - an opening that utilised rather disparate components nut nonetheless works
together splendidly. A delightful start, a bit tangy but smoothing soon.
The drydown is dominated by jasmine, carnation and geranium, in a classic chypre combination that is scintillatingly expressing the characteristics of a typical
chypre, but applied in a special way. Artemisia - with whiffs of vetiver - develops a bit later, but becomes quite strong over time.
Further down the track, the plot no really thickens. The star of the next act is a lovely oakmoss - the real thing, a bit zesty not not really sharp on me -
this is no Gucci Nobile. the moss goes in tandem with an impressive patchouli, which, again, ins not particularly shark, and is endowed with a spicy cinnamon sweetness of a nigh
oriental character in the background.
After that, the base develops a pleasant and slightly tannin-strong leather impression, and together with the patchouli and the oakmoss I get an impressive
finale.
I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and a longevity that varied in the different samples of different years I tried; the worst one was two hours, the best
one over eight eight hours.
A fresh and green fougere with a touch of leather. Rich, full of details, composed of top-class ingredients and with a beautifully zesty-sweet-fresh-spicy
bright balance. Traditional and definitely worth seeking out. Released 1988. 4/5